Gundam & Gunpla Glossary

1/144 scale means the kit is 144 times smaller than the fictional mobile suit. For a standard 18-metre mobile suit, a 1/144 kit stands roughly 12–13 cm tall. All HG, RG and Entry Grade kits build at this scale.

Entry Grade, HG and RG kits all build at 1/144 scale. MG kits build at 1/100 scale and PG kits at approximately 1/60 scale. Same scale across a collection gives a consistent shelf display.

A Bandai action base consists of a base plate, a poseable arm and an adaptor that connects to the kit. They allow kits to be displayed in flying, jumping or attacking positions.

An action base is optional but very useful for dynamic displays. Some kits include a small fixed stand, but dedicated action bases offer more poseability and stability. Check that the size is compatible with your kit grade before buying.

Colour separation is how Bandai engineers different runners in different colours so the finished kit looks accurate without needing paint. Good colour separation means OOB builds look close to the finished mobile suit design.

Better colour separation means more accuracy straight from the box. HG and RG kits from recent years have very good colour separation. Check review images of a built OOB kit before buying.

A dry transfer is positioned face-down on the kit surface, then firmly rubbed with a blunt tool to transfer the design onto the plastic. Dry transfers are common in RG, MG and PG kits and require no water.

For most builders, dry transfers are faster and more beginner-friendly — no water or setting solution needed. The trade-off is they are less forgiving of repositioning once applied.

Entry Grade (EG) is the simplest and most affordable Gunpla grade. EG kits have fewer parts than HG, use colour-separated plastic so the kit looks accurate straight from the box, and clip together without any glue. The EG RX-78-2 is a popular first build.

Entry Grade kits include colour-separated runners, an instruction sheet and a small stand in most releases. No cement, paint or tools come in the box. A basic pair of sprue cutters is recommended for a cleaner result.

A Gundam marker is a paint pen designed for Gunpla use. The panel line version flows into recessed lines by capillary action. Colour markers touch up nub marks. An eraser-type marker removes dried ink from raised surfaces cleanly.

The Gundam Marker Panel Line Gray is the most practical first purchase — it works across almost all HG and MG kits. The basic six-pen colour set is also a solid starting point.

The GBWC is an annual competition where Gunpla builders compete with custom-built kits. Each country holds a national heat, with finalists advancing to the world final in Japan. Hobbyco has supported Australian GBWC events.

Entry details are announced by Bandai Namco and participating retailers. Check the Hobbyco website and social channels for current event details and entry conditions.

HG stands for High Grade. These kits are 1/144 scale, meaning the finished model is 144 times smaller than the fictional mobile suit. HG kits cover mobile suits from every Gundam series and look great without any paint.

HG kits are 1/144 scale with no inner frame. MG kits are 1/100 scale, larger, and include a detailed inner skeleton beneath the armour panels. HG kits are faster to build and more affordable.

HGUC stands for High Grade Universal Century. It covers mobile suits from the original Gundam timeline — 0079, Zeta, ZZ, Char's Counterattack and beyond. Iconic suits include the RX-78-2 and Zaku II.

HGUC covers Universal Century suits only. HGCE covers Cosmic Era (SEED). HGIBO covers Iron-Blooded Orphans. HGAC covers After Colony (Wing Gundam). The build standard is identical across all HG sub-lines.

An inner frame is a fully built skeleton hidden beneath the outer armour panels of MG or PG kits. It is assembled first, then the armour clips over it. The inner frame enables more realistic joint movement.

HG kits do not include a separate inner frame. MG kits introduced the inner frame concept. RG kits include an articulated runner that functions similarly at 1/144 scale.

Kitbashing combines parts from different kits to build something new — swapping heads, torsos and weapons to create a one-of-a-kind mobile suit. It forms the basis of many competition entries.

Start with two or three HG kits at 1/144 scale. Same-grade kits tend to have compatible joint sizes. Swap parts freely — no glue needed for basic swaps. Add hobby putty to fill gaps as your skills grow.

MG stands for Master Grade. These 1/100 scale kits feature an internal skeleton (inner frame) with outer armour panels clipped over it. The finished model typically stands around 18 cm tall.

MG kits have higher part counts so most builders tackle a few HG kits first. The snap-fit system still applies. Starting with the RX-78-2 or Wing Gundam EW is widely recommended.

A mobile suit is a large, human-shaped combat robot typically piloted by a single person in the Gundam anime franchise. Gunpla kits allow fans to build and display scale models of their favourite mobile suits.

The RX-78-2 Gundam from the original 1979 series is the most iconic and has been released in every Gunpla grade. The Zaku II, Freedom Gundam, Wing Gundam and Barbatos are also widely collected.

MGEX stands for Master Grade Extreme, a premium tier within the MG grade featuring suits including the Strike Freedom and Unicorn. MGEX kits include an integrated LED unit and build at the same 1/100 scale as standard MG.

MGEX kits are more complex, more detailed and significantly more expensive than standard MG. The LED system is pre-integrated into the inner frame. They are aimed at experienced collectors wanting MG scale with the highest possible detail.

Nippers are the primary tool for Gunpla building. A quality pair cuts close to flush, leaving a very small nub that can be sanded smooth. Using scissors or fingernails tends to crack plastic.

For beginners, a mid-range pair from Tamiya gives clean cuts. Single-blade flush cutters leave the smallest nub, popular with experienced builders. Avoid very cheap nippers as they tend to crush plastic rather than cut cleanly.

When you cut a part from the runner, the gate leaves a slight mark on the surface. On lighter coloured parts, nub marks may appear as a white or slightly raised spot.

Use a two-pass cut: first cut 1 mm from the part surface, then a second cut flush. Finish with sanding sticks from 400 grit up to 1000 or higher. A matching Gundam marker covers remaining white stress marks on dark plastic.

OOB stands for Out of Box. You build the kit exactly as supplied without adding paint or panel lines. Thanks to Bandai's colour separation, OOB builds can look very clean and accurate on display.

Modern HG and Entry Grade releases look impressive built OOB. Adding a matte top coat and basic panel lining with a Gundam marker elevates the result significantly without any paint or airbrush.

PG kits build at roughly 1/60 scale and represent the highest level of standard retail Gunpla. They feature a complete inner frame, intricate surface detail and in select releases a pre-installed LED system. A PG kit stands around 30 cm tall.

PG kits suit experienced builders wanting a centrepiece display model. Most builders complete several MG kits before taking on a PG. The PG Unleashed RX-78-2 makes a striking display piece.

Panel lining runs dark ink into the recessed lines on the kit's surface, dramatically improving visual definition. It is the most impactful beginner-accessible finishing technique available.

Use a Gundam Marker Panel Line pen. Press the fine tip into the engraved line and let the ink flow along it. Once dry, wipe raised surfaces with a clean eraser or cotton bud. A matte top coat afterward locks everything in.

A polycap is a small, flexible piece made from polyethylene. It is softer than the main plastic so when placed in a joint it creates a snug fit that allows rotation without wearing down the harder plastic around it.

Newer kits increasingly use KPS (Kinectic Polystyrene System) parts instead of traditional polycaps. However many current kits still include a PC runner alongside the main runners.

Pla plates are thin polystyrene sheets in various thicknesses (0.3 mm to 1.2 mm). They can be cut with a hobby knife and bonded with plastic cement to add panels, vents or structural details.

A 0.5 mm sheet is the most versatile starting point — thin enough to layer without bulk, thick enough to handle cleanly. Use 0.3 mm for very fine surface details.

PG Unleashed is Bandai's highest-tier retail Gunpla offering. The first release was the PG Unleashed RX-78-2, featuring a new inner frame, outstanding colour separation and pre-installed LED wiring. It takes experienced builders 20+ hours to complete.

For serious collectors and experienced builders, PG Unleashed is widely considered the definitive retail Gunpla experience. Complete several MG builds first to develop the skills and patience the kit requires.

RG stands for Real Grade. These kits share the 1/144 scale as HG but include far more detail. RG kits use advanced multi-coloured runners and articulated inner frames to achieve a finish that rivals a 1/100 kit.

RG kits have more parts than HG and require more patience. The reward is exceptional detail at compact 1/144 scale. HG is the better starting point. Once comfortable with HG, RG is a natural next step.

A runner is the plastic frame that holds the kit parts. Bandai moulds each runner in a specific colour. Each runner is labelled with a letter matching the assembly instructions so you can find the right part quickly.

Identify the runner letter in the instruction step, then find the matching part number on the frame. Cut the part away using flush-cut sprue cutters. A two-pass cut leaves a tidier surface.

SD kits have exaggerated proportions with large heads and short rounded bodies. They build quickly, have low part counts and are highly colourful. They suit younger builders and anyone who enjoys the chibi art style.

Yes. Part counts are low, assembly is quick, and the finished size is compact and easy to display. Most SD kits suit builders from around age eight upward. They also make great gifts.

No. All modern Bandai Gunpla kits are snap-fit. Parts press and click together using moulded tabs and sockets. Parts can also be disassembled later for painting or corrections.

Snap-fit means the kit assembles entirely by pressing and clicking parts together. No glue is required. A pair of nippers is the only tool strongly recommended for a snap-fit build.

Sanding sticks smooth nub marks, remove seam lines and prepare surfaces for painting. Available in grits from coarse (220) to very fine (2000 or higher).

A set covering 400, 800, 1000 and 1500 grit covers most needs. Start at 400 to remove nubs, then work up through finer grits for a smooth paint-ready surface.

A seam line is the visible join between two plastic halves of a moulded part. On rounded parts such as heads, limbs and weapon barrels it can be prominent. Removing them involves plastic cement, curing and sanding.

Apply plastic cement along the inside of the join, press the halves together and wipe squeeze-out immediately. Cure for 24 hours. Sand with progressive grits starting at 400 and finishing at 1000 or higher.

A top coat protects decals and panel lining, reduces the plastic sheen from bare runners, and gives the whole model a uniform finish. Matte top coat is the most popular choice for a flat, realistic look.

Apply in a well-ventilated area, 25–30 cm from the model in short sweeping passes. Multiple thin coats beat one heavy coat. Apply decals and panel lining before the final top coat to seal everything in.

Cut the decal, soak it in water for about 15 seconds until the backing softens, then slide the decal onto the model surface. A decal softening solution helps the film conform to curved surfaces without cracking.

You need water, tweezers, a soft brush and a decal setting solution. A gloss coat on the model surface before decals helps them sit flat and avoids silvering. A final top coat seals everything.